Self Installation & Wiring
The hoist is designed with simplicity in mind. It is slim, fairly light (depending on model), has a steel base plate, making it sturdy and solid and is a completely integral unit. There are no "loose" components, the wire rope cable drum is internal and there is no lowing of coiled electric cable.
Your hanging fixture is plugged in when fully raised and unplugged when lowered, making it safe to work on when in a lowered state. The hoist system therefore is very flexible to almost any station.
It is deigned to be installed either flush to the ceiling (in line-of-sight), where you may find the winch cover plate (figure 1), sold separately, useful for cosmetic reasons, or in a void space such as, in between floors, in the attic/loft or in a false ceiling (non-line-of-sight).
Figure 1: Winch Cover Plate
1. To secure the Winch.
Bolt securely, in all four corners, using the pre-drilled holes in the steel base plate.
The winch can be bolted directly to a concrete or steel structure or alternatively can he hung on brackets made especially for the job, please contact us for steel plate fabrication service. Alternately it is possible on smaller scale jobs to you a "box-in" arrangement to simply hold the winch in place and stop it from moving - this method isn't recommended but is a viable solution when the winch isn't due to hold a lot of weight. Figure 7 shows an example of how this can be mounted.
Figure 2: Connection Block
2. Hoist Wiring Guide.
There is a black connection block coming from the winch system (figure 2), labelled "L1, L2, N and PE", into this, the supply for the winch and fixture to be hung are wired. Removal of this block or alteration of the wiring from it to the winch will void your warranty.
L1 (red wires) - is the live wire for the winch and L1 on the connection plate
L2 (blue wires) - is the live for L2 on the connection plate.
N (black wires) - is the common neutral for the winch, L1 & L2 on the connection plate.
N (green and yellow wire) - is the earth for both the winch and hanging fixture.
Figure 3a: The Connection Plate
Figure 3b: The Connection Plate
3. Recommended Wiring:
The connection plate (displayed in figure 3) at the base of the winch has three male connectors L1, L2 & N, giving you the ability to create two separate switched circuits. For example, allowing you to turn tier one and tier two of a chandelier on separately. if you only require one switched circuit use L2, this will allow you to use the L1 circuit solely for the winch power, allowing you to switch its off completely when not in use.
Our recommendation for wiring these units, for best results is below: -
As a single new circuit breaker for the winch (and hanging fixture), to your consumer unit (breaker board). Size dependent on the model (Ratings Link Here) and to be determined by an electrician, as should the appropriate wire type for use throughout the installation.
We recommend a "D" class breaker to handle the normal motor start-up spike Please note: L1 & L2 cannot be wired to separate breakers due to them sharing a common neutral. the common neutral means you will not be able to isolate either supply individually, which means there is a risk of electric shock if wired to multiple breakers. * If wiring for multiple units give each exclusive use of its own breaker.
Switch both lives. If your light fixture is to be switched with only one circuit (hanging fixture plugged into L2 only), switch L2 with a light switch (as per the lighting in the rest of your building and switch the L1 feed with a key switch placed in a secure area or as per your preference. If you intend to use two circuits with your fixture (L1 & L2 on the connection plate), add light switching to both lives.
Figure 4: A Guide for Installation.
4. Electrical Ratings.
For the requited electrical ratings for each winch please click this link.
5. Attaching your Hanging Fixture.
Your fixture is attached to the connection plate using the included D shaped shackle (as shown in figure 6).
It is recommended that you use some thread lock adhesive on the threaded boss (screwed into the connection plate), as an added security.
If you are not mounting your winch flush to the underside of your ceiling, you can bridge the gap between the underside of the ceiling and position your winch with a few links of chain (see figure 7).
Figure 6: Shackle & Connection Plate
Figure 7: Bridging the gap between the winch and the underside of the ceiling
To provide power to your fixture connect to the male connectors on the underside of the connection plate using the blue female crimp connections provided.
When the connection plate is fully raised the male connector pins on the underside of the connector plate will be LIVE, do not touch.
If the winch is connected to and electrical supply the brass pins where the connector plate rises to will also be LIVE, do not touch.
Figure 8b shows the connector rings on the back of the connector plate.
Figure 8a: Connection Plate Contacts
Figure 8b: Back of the Connector Plate
6. Weight Safety Test:
To test the integrity of your winch installation you should carry out a weight test. This test is more to test the fixings holding your winch system rather than the winch itself which has been tested during manufacture.
Warning - Do not stand underneath the winch when carrying out a safety test.
Process : Fit a suitable vessel to hold the testing wrights, to the connector plate on the hoist using the D shackle on the winch, Lower the winch so the vessel sits just above the floor, Add the safety test weights. Do not stand underneath the winch whiles adding the weights. The winch will not operate whilst overloaded. Check the gap underneath the vessel remains constant after the test weights have been added. Leave for 30 minutes. Remove the weights, check the operation of the winch, and visually inspect the fixings. Remember, the winch will only work with a minimum of 5 kg hanging on it.
Chandelier Group provides a complete survey and installation service, please click here to inquire.